Palazzo Massimo
Sculptures, mosaics and frescoes a treasure trove of ancient art and artifacts
I have designated 2025 for ‘seeing’ Italy. As the Jubilee celebrations have begun, I dread the influx of tourists. So, in January we will start our itinerary in Rome.
Every Thursday my son Alex and I have committed to seeing a museum in Rome before the onslaught of tourists begins. Greek and Roman literature and classics as well as Latin are a standard in Italian Scientific High School. Even so- if you do not go to University most Italians have studied, the Illiad, Odessey and Greek and Latin poetry and at some point art history.
So to combine the lessons he is learning, I am an advocate of taking the learning out of the classroom to the streets of Rome.
(from the cost of Civitavecchia we get the train to Rome)
January is dreary, rainy and fog-filled, so its the perfect month to visit the museums. Not only is it less crowded, but the temperature is tolerable inside the museum which has no air-conditioning in the summertime.
Our first trip is easy. A train ride from Civitavecchia 45 minutes to an hour to Roma Termini. From the train station a short walk to the Museo Nazionale Romano known as Palazzo Massimo alle Terme. One of the most underrated museums, the entrance unfortunately and currently hidden by scaffolding. At only 8€ per ticket ( Alex was free), we can view some of the most spectacular sculptures, mosaics and frescos from Ancient Rome.
The museum itself is an imposing buildings constructed between 1883 and 188. Itd was a college for Jesuits until the 1960s. The ground floor is dedicated to the lateRepublicann era. A colossal statue of a seated Godess greetedd us. She came from the slopes of the Aventine and is carved out of marble of different colours.
The tendency to detail is incredulous. Every fold, crease, curvature, and curl is carved out of marble and stone. Each section shows the differences in classes by hair and beard style and clothing. These sculptures cover several periods of the Ancient Roman Empire, allowing Alex to name several of the Emperors and rulers of the Empire from his Roman history studies.
We spent three hours between the ground and the upper two floors using ChatGPT to create our itinerary. Our itinerary was for four hours but we could only manage three. There are no guides or bookstores inside the museum ( I guess keeping the price so low) so it is wise to have some itinerary to get the most benefit of this incredible museum. Another reason to have a guide- I didn’t see the elevator- the stairs to go up the next two floors had me winded. Not just because I am out of shape but like most stairs in Rome they are steep, narrow and high. Ascending the stairs had me feeling I was climbing to the sky. Buildings from the 1800s have high ceilings and big windows for air circulation.
The Palazzo features remarkable pieces of Roman bronze statuary. The Boxer is an exhibit that is a must see.
The Boxer
This bronze masterpiece was found on the slopes of Quirinal Hill and may have been in a private residence, possibly from the 1st century BC. What is incredible is that bronze sculptures were melted down in later centuries, so it's rare to see such a magnificent sculpture intact. This sculpture shows the toughness of the boxer, a symbol of the capacity to overcome any difficulty to attain victory.
Look at the realistic detail of the cuts and wounds. The blood, shed in a recent fight runs down the right arm to the leg are red copper.
Mosaics
On the second floor are the mosaics. Mosaics covered the floors and walls of the villas in Ancient Rome. Entire floors are now on display. The intricacy, colours and geometric designs had me blown away. On this floor, you can spend another hour in awe.
From the mosaics to entire rooms dedicated to the reconstruction of painted walls and Frescoes to the mosaic floors you can get the feeling of the opulence in the villas of the Ancient Romans. It is like stepping back into a time capsule.
In our last hour before rushing back to the train station the garden room as I call it is the most famous of this museum.
The wall with a fresco of a garden painting of which was found in the winter room of the wife of the Emporer Augustus was detached and restored and reassembled to represent the entire room found in her villa. A fresco to represent a garden which while I took a moment to take it all in - felt as if I were in a garden.
The garden is made up of laurel trees, palms, fruit trees - pomegranates and oranges; plants, flowers and birds flying against the luminous eternal Roman blue sky.
The detail of the frescoes after 2000 years old are still incredibly vibrant.
The perfect blend of art, culture and ancient craftsmanship - every corner of this museum tells a story. There is so much we did not cover. I am glad we had our itinerary to maximize the highlights. Did I tell you that this museum was empty? It is well worth another trip. Perhaps next year.
Juli-Anne
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